Near the western edge of the National Park, tucked away up a peaceful side-valley, we arrived at the Drousy Water Dude Ranch as the evening sunshine gilded the valley in liquid gold (top). For over 70 years this 600 acre family-run ranch has offered warm Western hospitality in an idyllic setting. The ranch-house (second), the barns (third) and the horses themselves were almost too perfect. Ken and Randy-Sue Fosha, the delightful owners, preside over a great team and after a good meal and energetic line dancing in the barn, I slept soundly in a pretty cottage beside the babbling brook. Check out their website at http://www.drowsywater.com/ and you’ll be hooked too!