Saturday, November 20, 2010

Scottsdale Arizona



What a perfect amalgam of cultural delights and desert adventures! I’m in Scottsdale Arizona, “an urban oasis in the heart of the Sonoran Desert”, to broadcast my radio shows back to Canada. Four days of oscillating between The Great Outdoors and Civilization: from mountaintops, ancient ruins and desert cacti to world-class resorts, spas, art galleries, museums and restaurants. Bewildering and bewitching in equal measure…and captivating throughout!

To find out more about Scottsdale – visit www.experiencescottsdale.com


Downtown Scottsdale: Tastes, Diverse Districts and History




Downtown Scottsdale is a pedestrian-friendly hodge-podge of funky districts, adjoining one another in a patchwork quilt of strollable streets: Fashion Square, Waterfront, SouthBridge, Entertainment, Fifth Avenue, Arts, Civic Center and Old Town. Old Town is the heart of the “West’s Most Western Town” (hence the cowboy sign above) and sports horse and carriage rides and Western emporiums, presided over by the statue of Winfield Scott, eponymous founder of the city.

Annie Breheny of Arizona Food Tours guided me through a Taste of Old Town Scottsdale, which included visits (and sampling) to Su Vino Winery (Arizona wines? Who knew?), The Rusty Spur (Cowboy saloon), Outrageous Olive Oils and Vinegars (Such glorious variety!), Cowboy Ciao (‘Pig n Pudding’ – scrumptious!) and more.

Biking Scottsdale: Mountain Biking Heaven




In the sparkling and knowledgeable company of Tim Dice of Arizona Outback Adventures and Laura McMurchie of Scottsdale CVB (my wonderful host), I let the Inner Child in me take over as we careened along challenging desert trails on top notch mountain bikes in McDowell Mountain Regional Park. We had outlandish fun in the early morning sunshine as we followed the ups and downs of a trail that led past towering saguaro cacti in the lee of the mountains to the east of Scottsdale.

Scottsdale Hiking: Gateway and Camelback





From biking to hiking, from one side of the mountains to the other, Tim took us on a guided hike into the McDowell Sonoran Preserve, beginning at The Gateway. This is a brand new entrance into the Preserve that lies within the city itself and yet connects directly to the desert and mountain wilderness - a good example of how Scottsdale merges city life with outdoor experiences. Tim took us on the Gateway Loop Trail up to Gateway saddle at nearly 2,500 feet where we had our picnic in the shade of a palo verde tree and I recorded an interview with Tim for the radio show.

Up at 5am the next morning for a higher hike: a pre-dawn ascent of Camelback Mountain with Laura and Marie-Claude, a fellow Canadian journalist from Montreal. We set up the tough trail under near-dark desert skies which glowed progressively as we clambered up the steep, boulder-strewn gullies to a glorious finale on the summit as dawn exploded over the 2,700 foot peak – the highest point in Scottsdale – and perhaps the highpoint of my trip. Magnificent!

Scottsdale Culture: Museums, Architecture and Galleries





It is truly disorientating to stagger off a tremendous mountain hike, shower and set off on a cultural odyssey that only a sophisticated city could present. First stop: Cosanti, the gallery, studio and residence of renowned Italian-American architect Paolo Soleri. I was privileged to meet with this still-productive 91 year old artist whose new Soleri Bridge and Plaza opens in Scottsdale next month. The old man still has a mischievous glint in his eyes.

Next: a charming Ace Bailey of Ultimate Art & Cultural Tours took me on a fascinating insider’s look at Valley Ho, a lovingly restored 1950’s landmark hotel, formerly the getaway spot for the likes of Humphrey Bogart and Tony Curtis.

Scottsdale has a wealth of Public Art on show throughout the city, from Western mustangs to overpass bas-reliefs. There are also nearly a hundred art galleries throughout the city, concentrated in the Arts District, which I explored on the Scottsdale ArtWalk which takes place weekly on Thursday evenings.

And the museums…Way too many for me to fit them all in, but I managed the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art (SMoCA), the Scottsdale Historical Museum housed in The Little Red Schoolhouse, and my favourite: MIM – Musical Instrument Museum. This is modern museum presentation at its very best: state of the art audio and video envelop visitors in a cocoon of musical arts from around the world.